5 Best Things to Do in Villa Rica
Dark fine sand, dunes, and an archaeological site: Villa Rica de la Veracruz has lots to offer for a relaxing yet varied beach vacation. This town was established under Hernán Cortés in 1519. It comprised a church, an enclosed settlement, and a fort whose sparse remains are still to be found. But even more famous is this place for the alliance with 30 Totonacan towns that Cortés achieved. This was an important stepstone to the Conquest of Mexico.
Nowadays, the town’s beach called Playa Villa Rica is the main attraction and tourist destination. The nearby archaeological site of Quiahuiztlán with its Totonac mausoleum-style tombs is unique to Mexico. The beach town itself is very small with its population of 200, less visited than many other beaches in Mexico, and more apt for those looking for relaxation instead of clubbing. Be ready to enjoy the beach, the shallow waters, cliffs, and dunes on your next beach vacation!
History of Villa Rica de la Veracruz
You wouldn’t think that such a small town played quite an important part in Mexico’s history. Who would think that Hernán Cortés himself established it as a gateway to the conquest of the Aztec empire? But it is so: In April 1519, Cortés founded the first municipal administration of Villa Rica de la Veracruz where today’s city of Veracruz can be found. For strategic reasons, Cortés moved the location of the administration in June 1519 to today’s Playa Villa Rica. This second site, nearby and with the approval of the Totonac allies from Quiahuiztlán, was to become the Spaniards’ stronghold for several years. From here, the town council of Villa Rica de la Veracruz was legally and finally established, and the emperors of Spain were informed of it. It also became the main port of New Spain from 1519 to 1525 and the main entry and exit door for goods, travelers, animals, and wealth between the West Indies and Europe. It was not until 1525 that the municipal administration was moved again, this time to La Antigua, and in 1599 to the original place of today’s Veracruz City.
The small settlement of today’s small beach town of Villa Rica de la Veracruz remained, however, and kept its name until today. It’s supposed that it was here or close by where Cortés sank his ships to hinder his men and himself from returning home and instead leaving the conquest of Mexico as the only option.
At a Glance: Best 5 Things to Do in Playa Villa Rica
- Enjoy the Beach of Playa Villa Rica
- Walk Through the Dunes
- Walk Down the Cliffs at La Quebrada
- Admire the Lagoon
- Visit the Unique Archaeological Site of Quiahuiztlán
1. Enjoy the Beach
Almost 1.5 km (1 mile) of pristine beaches of dark fine sand is what Playa Villa Rica offers. At low tide, you can cross the lagoon in the south to walk even further. And as Playa Villa Rica is not on every beach lover’s map, you probably have most of the beach to yourself. At least during the week, not many tourists find their way to this beach town. The waters are shallow and very clean and can take on an emerald color depending on the season and the light.
There are some palapas (palm-roofed huts) in the north of the beach where you can sit in the shade and have something to eat or drink. The ones in the south of the beach were not serviced when we went during the week.
Pro Tip
As the sand is quite dark, it can get extremely hot on a sunny day. Make sure to bring sandals or flip-flops to walk along the beach.
2. Walk Through the Dunes
In the northern part of the beach, before you get to the cliffs of La Quebrada (see next list item), you’ll find a stretch of dunes. The fine dark sand has built up here, and you can walk through it to get to the other side of the cliffs. Also, from here you have a great view of the town, the mountains behind it, and the sea.
3. Walk Down the Cliffs at La Quebrada
If you keep walking north from the dunes, you get to the cliffs of La Quebrada. A yellow post shows you the entrance to a steep uphill path of about 10-15 minutes before you reach the cliffs. There are trails to each side once you reach the top. In front of you is the first view from the cliffs onto the water, and a stone stairway leads down with several platforms in between to enjoy the view. Be careful, though, as the steps are narrow.
If you follow the footpath to the left, there’s another stone stairway down the cliffs. To descend from the hilltop to get back to the beach, you can either go back the way you came from. Or you follow the footpath further to the left, it’ll also bring you back down to the dunes.
Pro Tip
Make sure to bring good footwear if you want to descend the stairs down the cliffs.
4. Admire the Lagoon
If you walk south along the beach, you’ll get to the lagoon on your right. At low tide, you can (carefully!) cross the stretch where the lagoon water meets the ocean as it’s not very deep. If you rather prefer to walk back to town, you can also turn right at the Palapa Los Pitufos and walk along the main street back through town.
Pro Tip
At the rocks on the shore, before the lagoon meets the ocean, you might see crabs hiding under the rocks. Especially at dusk or with the changing of the tides, they like to gather here.
5. Visit the Unique Archaeological Site of Quiahuiztlán
Only about 3.5 km (2 miles) from town, you can find the archaeological site of Quiahuiztlán (“The Place of the Rain”). The road to Quiahuiztlán leads steeply uphill the Cerro de los Metales mountain (also called Bernal Hill), so it’s best to arrive by car or tour bus. The entry fee is 75 pesos (4.50 USD); on Sundays, it’s free. The site is not huge, so you probably won’t need much longer than half an hour or an hour to see it all. You have a great view of Playa Villa Rica with its La Quebrada cliffs and the lagoon.
The site shows remains of the Totonac culture. What’s unique to this site is the small mausoleum-style tombs in the shape of miniature temples. These tombs were used to bury people from the nobility. There are three main cemeteries where you can find these tombs; two directly on the main site which is situated on a platform. Another one can be found further uphill in the Cementerio Sur. However, as there are only 4 to 5 of these tombs, it’s not really worth climbing all the way up in my opinion.
Pro Tip
Bring sun protection and a hat, as it can get pretty hot. I suggest avoiding noon time when the sun is at its highest and strongest. When it’s humid, there might be mosquitos.
…What Else Can You Do in Playa Villa Rica?
Go Fishing
If you’re into fishing, bring your fishing gear along and see what you can catch. The fishermen usually stand close to the area where the dunes meet the cliffs, at the northern end of the beach. The place we stayed at also had a fishing rod (I’m not fishing, though), so ask your hotel if they can provide one for you.
Visit Playa Chachalacas
Need more activity and fun things to do? Only 40 km (25 miles) south of Playa Villa Rica, you can find the beach town Playa Chachalacas. With a population of around 1,000, it’s almost 5 times the size of Playa Villa Rica. Playa Chachalacas is famous for its quad tours along the beach to the dunes, boat trips through the lagoon, and banana-boat rides. All along the coastline, you can find palapas (palm-roofed huts) to sit in the shade and eat and drink. There are more options for hotels and simple restaurants, too. Playa Chachalacas is quite popular with Mexicans; I personally prefer Playa Villa Rica, but that’s up to what you’re looking for.
Where to Eat in Villa Rica
Admittedly, Villa Rica is a tiny town of roughly 200 inhabitants and has only a handful of small restaurants. They mostly close soon at around 5-6 pm. As we stayed only one night, we didn’t have the time to try out several places. The food is basically what the locals eat, no fancy Westernized food.
Palapa Castellanos
Despite its rustic exterior, you get decent food at reasonable prices here. The menu comprises mainly seafood, but there’s also a chicken option (milanesa de pollo). The prawns (camarones) are good, the fish filet stuffed with seafood as well (filete relleno), and you can drink fresh coconut water.
Where to Stay in Villa Rica
Casa Frente a la Playa
This house lies directly at the beach with direct access to it. It has a big garden with mango trees and a small wading pool, and you can lie in a hammock on the terrace. The rooms are spread across two floors, with two bedrooms for 2-4 people (though I’d rather say for two people each if you want to sleep comfortably), a kitchen with 2 electric heating plates (but only pans and one small pot), two refrigerators, and a dining room with direct view of the garden and ocean. I think it’s perfect to go on a vacation as two befriended couples. The interior is basic, though. But it’s very comfy and you have your peace directly at the beach – what else could you want?
Pro Tip
If you prefer to cook for yourself, you can find three small shops with the basics (eggs, bread, milk, coffee, pasta, canned food). However, it’s not the broadest of selections, so you might want to bring any extra food when arriving.
How to Get There
Villa Rica de la Veracruz is about 390 km (240 miles) from Mexico City and 290 km (180 miles) from Puebla City.
If you take public transportation, you can get to Veracruz or Xalapa by bus, and then take a taxi for the last 14 km (9 miles). Or you go to Xalapa, but then it’s still 100 km (62 miles) to go by taxi. You can also arrive by car, or by booking a tour. By car, calculate about 900 pesos (54 USD) for tolls each way.
So…Is It for Me?
If you’re looking for a place where you can completely relax, with long, barely visited beaches and beautiful nature, then Villa Rica de la Veracruz is your place to be. It’s a great beach getaway for a long weekend, and you can take long walks or visit the archaeological site. However, if you need more variety, or enjoy nightlife and watersport activities, you’d probably feel lonely or bored. The town is even smaller than Sisal (Yucatan)! Also, the internet connection can be a bit laggy and unreliable. For us, however, it was a great time to relax and enjoy the beautiful sea. We surely will get back for a longer vacation!
