9 Best Things to Do in Tehuacán

The Cradle of Corn, pyramids, and a famous goat dish: Admittedly, it’s easy to overlook Tehuacán as it doesn’t belong to the popular Magical Towns (Pueblos Mágicos) that attract masses of tourists. And the pyramids in the old part of the city are less known and you have to know how to reach them (see my tips on how to get to the pyramids). Actually, we were only traveling through on our way to the cactus forests in Zapotitlán Salinas. But luckily we decided to spend the time in between the changing of buses to explore the city a bit more.

About Corn and Presidents

You might not believe it, but the city’s history can list several famous names, from presidents Benito Juárez and Porfirio Díaz to the hero of the Mexican Independence War Morelos. The Town Hall knows to tell more about it. Despite the hot and dry climate, Tehuacán was also famous for its pomegranate cultivation, which is why it also used to be called “Tehuacán de las Granadas” (granadas being pomegranates). It’s also the seat of a popular soft drinks manufacturer that uses the mineral springs as a source for its products. The Valley of Tehuacán is also known as the Cradle of Corn: Relics prove the cultivation of corn in this area for more than 7,000 years. Tehuacán means literally “place of gods” and is one of the oldest cities in Mexico, with settlements dating back to 8500 B.C.

Lying in the southwestern part of the Puebla state, the area borders on the states of Oaxaca and Veracruz. With 330,000 inhabitants, it’s the second largest city of the Puebla state after the city of Puebla itself. It lies in a dry valley of Tehuacán-Cuicatlán which has been a UNESCO world heritage since 2018. Funnily enough, the valley is one of the regions of Northern America with the highest biological diversity, known for its cactus forests.

Not to forget the culinary specialties that Tehuacán is famous for like the mole de caderas, a goat dish. Without further ado, let’s have a look at Tehuacán’s highlights!

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At a Glance: TOP 9 Highlights in Tehuacán

1. Admire the Town Hall Murals
2. Visit the Cathedral of Tehuacán
3. Visit the Museum of the Tehuacán Valley
4. Visit the Ex-Convent El Carmen
5. Visit the Church of Our Lady of Carmen
6. Relax in the Ecological Park
7. Visit the Pyramids
8. Eat Local Specialties: Mole de Caderas
9. Eat the Typical Sweet Muéganos

1. Admire the Town Hall Murals

Luckily, Tehuacán doesn’t break with the Mexican tradition of decorating the town hall with beautiful murals. And here you get a special treat: Two murals inside the town hall on the first floor, and beautiful murals under the arches of the entrance hall outside.

The inside of the town hall has two murals on the first floor depicting the hero of the Mexican Independence War, José María Morelos. The first mural alongside the staircase shows Morelos with the Goddess of Corn. You can also see the city banner that the Spaniards gave to the town; they made it clear that the indigenous people don’t feel too free by adding the picture of a beheaded person. The second mural opposite the first one shows Morelos and various other figures relevant to the city’s history.

Outside the town hall under the entrance arches, you can find the mural “Tehuacán and its 5 regions” painted by the Carpinteyro brothers. It depicts the evolution of Tehuacán and the 5 regions that surround this area: The half-dry mixteca region with its salt mines, the high plains, the valley, the Sierra, and the mountains. Additionally, starting from the right side, the murals depict the evolution of men from a single-celled organism and dinosaurs to homo sapiens. Also, you can see several historical events relevant to the city. For example, the later President Benito Juárez spent 2 years as a prisoner in the converted ex-convent El Carmen. After his release, he wasn’t allowed to enter the city again.

Porfirio Díaz, a long-term president from 1876-1880 and 1884-1911, also spent some days in Tehuacán. He donated the clock you can see on the facade of the building to thank the city for the housing during his stay.

2. Visit the Cathedral of Tehuacán

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is located at the main square of Parque Juárez. It was built in 1724 to commemorate the 203rd anniversary of the fall of Tenochtitlán. Within only 4 years, the building was completed. It was first known simply under the name “La Parroquía” (the Parish). It wasn’t before 1962 that Pope John XXIII established the Diocese of Tehuacán and thus elevated the parish to a Cathedral. The inside of the cathedral is beautifully decorated in blue-and-golden colors.

3. Visit the Museum of the Tehuacán Valley

This museum is located in the ex-convent El Carmen. The entry to the museum is at the northern part of this huge complex, facing the Ecological Park and the archive (Archivo Histórico Municipal de Tehuacán). Based on archaeological findings under Richard Stockton MacNeish in the 1960s, the museum tells the history of the Tehuacán Valley and the people settling here. It takes a closer look at how people cultivated wild maize over 7,000 years until it became the modern form we know today. The most ancient forms of cultivated maize were found here. That’s why Tehuacán is also called the Cradle of Corn. The museum also explains the importance of the salt industry in the region. The exhibition pieces show ancient ears of teosinte, the primitive version of maize, and ceramic artifacts.

Entry costs around 75 MXN (4 USD); as the museum is small, you might not need more than 30-45 minutes for it. Opening hours are Mon-Fri, 10 AM – 6 PM.

4. Visit the Ex-Convent El Carmen

The ex-convent El Carmen is a huge baroque complex built in the 18th century. The Carmelites used the ex-convent for roughly 100 years before its function changed. Since then, it was a hospital, a prison, a railway station, and even barracks for a while.

Nowadays, it houses the following: The church Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen on its southern side, a public library, and the Museum of the Valley of Tehuacán on its northern side.

The entrance to the ex-convent itself is in the Avenida Reforma Norte street next to the church. Passing the entrance with its fountain, you get to a small patio. To the left side, some big black-and-white photographs show scenes from the town’s history and artwork. You can walk up the stairs to the first floor where several public offices are located, once the monk’s chambers. But apart from some nice artwork and a view of the patio and the church’s dome next to it, there’s not much more to see.

Open from Mon-Sat from 10 AM – 4 PM; entry is free.

5. Visit the Church of Our Lady of Carmen

At the southern and western side of the ex-convent, you can find the entrance to the Church of Our Lady of Carmen (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen). It was constructed in the baroque architecture style typical for the 18th century in Mexico. The main altar has three niches: The left side is dedicated to the Prophet Elias; the center to Our Lady of Carmen; and the right side to Saint Teresa of Ávila, a Carmelite nun and Doctor of the Church.

Interesting is the beef between Franciscans and Carmelites: The Franciscans were the first religious order to build a church and convent in the 16th century. When the Carmelites planned to settle down in Tehuacán, they lacked permission to build a church, and the Franciscans wanted to keep it that way. However, the Carmelites had the support of important people and in the end, got the official permission to build a convent.

Opening hours are 10 AM – 5 PM.

6. Relax in the Ecological Park

On its northern side, the ex-convent faces the Ecological Park (Parque Ecológico). Compared to the main square Parque Juárez, this park is more tranquil and perfect for relaxing. Sit on one of its benches under the trees, or have a coffee in one of its adjacent coffee shops.

7. Visit the Pyramids of Tehuacán Viejo

Tehuacán’s pyramids lie in the east of the city, Old Tehuacán (Tehuacán Viejo). It’s less known and could do with more advertising effort. I’ve added tips on how to get there in the box below; make sure to read them to avoid issues. The benefit is that the site is less expensive and overrun than the big archaeological sites. The ruins are spread over a territory of maybe 1 km (0.6 miles), so be prepared to walk a bit. As it can get very hot, I suggest bringing a hat and an umbrella to protect from the sun.

Before the Spaniards arrived in Mexico, Tehuacán was the most important center of what is now the state of Puebla. In the archaeological site, you can find ruins of governors’ and priests’ residencies. If you walk further on, you’ll get to the big temple (Templo Mayor), surrounded by other temple structures. It’s a shame that the site museum is currently closed for an unforeseen time; it would have been nice to see some of the artifacts found. While the whole site comprises around 126 hectares, only around 16 hectares have been explored so far. You can find an overview of the site on the official page under https://lugares.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas-arqueologicas/zonas/14643-tehuac%C3%A1n-el-viejo.html ->”Mapa”.

Opening hours are Tue-Sun 9 AM – 5 PM for 80 MXN (4 USD) (Sundays free for Mexicans or residents).

How to Get to the Pyramids of Tehuacán Viejo

Here are some tips on how to get to the pyramids safe and sound:

• By Public Transport: Take the combi no. 23 from Calle 3 Sur Street (about the height of Calle 3 Oriente Street). You need to tell them to bring you to the pyramids, as it’s not a regular stop. To get back, ask the staff at the site’s entrance to call the combi for you (“Puede llamar el combi para regresar, por favor?”). A bus ride is about 23 MXN (1.20 USD).
• By Car: If you have a car, make sure to select “Site Museum Tehuacán” (Museo de Sitio Tehuacán) as the destination in your GPS. This way you get to the pyramid’s entrance via a paved road (Camino a Tehuacán Viejo); otherwise, you’ll end up in the middle of nowhere.
• By Private Transport: If you don’t mind paying more for comfort and flexibility, call Fernando Pronto at +52 2382744911. We paid 300 MXN (16 USD) for transportation from the city center to the pyramids and back, with him waiting for us at the pyramids for 1 hour.

8. Eat Local Specialties: Mole de Cadera

Mole de cadera, also called huaxmole or huazmole, is a stew of goat meat and bones. Especially Tehuacán, Puebla, as well as Huajuapan de León, Oaxaca, are known for this traditional dish, but you can also find it in other cities of the Puebla and Oaxaca state. October 19 to November 19 is the typical season to eat mole de cadera. That’s the time when La Matanza takes place, the ritual sacrificing of the goats. Before the sacrifice, the goats get a specific diet of salt and herbs, giving the meat a special flavor. It’s especially the hip bones and the spine that are the main ingredients for the mole de cadera. The goat meat is used for a variety of dishes, for example, chilaquiles de matanza, which is a typical breakfast of fried tortillas with goat meat.

The restaurant Mi Lupita in Calle 5 Sur Street is known for this dish.

9. Eat the Typical Sweet of Tehuacán: Muéganos

Muéganos (moo-EH-gun-os) are a typical sweet of the state of Puebla, but here in Tehuacán, the preparation differs from what you can find in Puebla City, for example. A dough of wheat, egg, milk, butter, honey, and sugar is baked in a layer of thin wafers. Available flavors are natural, chocolate, amaranth, and flaxseed. The most traditional store to buy muéganos is Muéganos El Águila Real in Calle 3 Sur Street. On the wall, you can find pictures of the production process and the company’s history.

…What Else Can You Do in Tehuacán?

Visit the Museum of Evolution Tehuacán

About 7 km (4 miles) from the main square, the Museum of Evolution Tehuacán displays fossils and minerals from the region and explains the evolution of dinosaurs. It’s not super big, so 1-2 hours should be enough to see everything. If you don’t speak Spanish, have your translation app ready. The entry costs 42 MXN (2.30 USD).

The address is Carretera Federal Puebla – Tehuacán 1211 ó Km 114 , Col, San Lorenzo Teotipilco. A taxi ride costs about 100 MXN (5 USD). Opening hours are Tue-Thur 10 AM – 5 PM, and Fri-Sun 10 AM – 6 PM.

Visit the Museum of Water Manantiales Peñafiel

Peñafiel is a popular brand of mineral water and soft drinks. At their plant in Tehuacán, they offer guided tours in Spanish by reservation. The tour leads you from a cactus garden to underground tunnels, explaining the manufacturing process since 1928. The tour is at 11 AM and additionally at 4 PM at weekends, and lasts 30-60 min. Getting tickets is a bit of a hassle: You need to make a reservation at least 24 hours in advance and for at least 2 people under this link. The address is Avenida José Garci-Crespo 2805, Planta Peñafiel, San Nicolás Tetitzintla.

Visit the Church and Ex-Convent San Francisco

After visiting the ex-convent El Carmen of the Carmelites it’s just fair to also visit the church and ex-convent of the Franciscans. After all, they had arrived in Tehuacán first and had already done most of the evangelization work since the 16th century. The complex lies in the Agustín A. Cacho 113 street, 3 blocks east of the main square Parque Juárez.

Explore the Cactus Forests and Salt Mines of Zapotitlán Salinas

Only half an hour from Tehuacán lies Zapotitlán Salinas, a village known for its cactus forests and salt mines. At the restaurant of this small town, you can try local specialties like cactus flowers, cactus fruits, and insects. 30 km (19 miles) further lies San Juan Raya, a village known for its dinosaur prints and fossils.

Where to Eat in Tehuacán

JACINTA Cocina Casual

About 5 blocks from the main square, this restaurant offers traditional Mexican dishes with a modern touch to it. The ambiance is modern and relaxed, and the staff is amiable. It’s definitely my favorite for breakfast. Try the omelet with huitlacoche (corn mushroom) – delicious! The address is Avenida Reforma Sur 911 (closed on Mondays).

Where to Stay in Tehuacán

We didn’t stay in Tehuacán as we were just traveling through and stayed in Zapotitlán Salinas instead. But here are some high-rated places from booking.com.

Hotel Zenith

This modern hotel is just two blocks from the main square Parque Juárez right down the road from the ADO bus terminal. It provides all you need: Free parking, a small gym, spa, restaurant, and rooms with air conditioning; breakfast included.

Gran Hotel Mexico by Solaris

This beautiful hotel in an old colonial building has undergone a renovation recently. There’s a garden with a pool, a restaurant, parking, and air conditioning. The hotel is just one block from the main square.

How to Get to Tehuacán

Tehuacán is about 130 km (81 miles) from Puebla and 250 km (155 miles) from Mexico City. We took the climatized ADO bus from Puebla CAPU, which leaves about every 2 hours and costs 238 MXN (13 USD). The AU buses leave even more often but provide a bit less comfort (for example, they don’t have a toilet).

The ADO bus terminal in Tehuacán is only 2 blocks from the main square (Parque Juárez). It’s spacious and clean, and buses are leaving regularly. Here’s the timetable from Puebla to Tehuacán, and here from Mexico City to Tehuacán.

So…Is It for Me?

If you want to experience a Poblano (from the state of Puebla) city off the typical tourist tracks, Tehuacán is just right for you. It’s historically important and has several tourist attractions. Don’t miss the murals at the Town Hall! Tehuacán can be a convenient stop on your way to Oaxaca or Orizaba, for example. Spend a day and try the local cuisine, or enjoy visiting pyramids that are still affordable and less overrun than the big names of Chichen Itza and the like.

Read Next:

7 Best Things to Do in Zapotitlán Salinas