Discovering Cantona: Impressive Ruins of an Ancient City in Puebla

One of the most extensive archaeological sites in Mexico lies in the northeast of the Puebla state, close to the border to Veracruz: Cantona. And it might well be the site with the most ball game courts: Archaeologists have found 27 so far, more than in any other Mesoamerican site.

This pre-Hispanic city was once one of the most extensive of its time. At its peak, it was home to over 90.000 people who lived here in 7500 housing units.

Nowadays, you can climb many of its pyramids and temples, walk the cobbled streets, and enjoy the peace and quiet as the site is little visited. You might even have it all to yourself! So, pack your walking boots and prepare to explore Cantona’s ancient ruins!

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The Historical Background of Cantona

Cantona lies more than 2,450 and 2,600 meters above sea level on dry, infertile land made of volcanic lava. The first settlements date back to 1000 B. C., and the city with its streets and houses was built around 50 AD. At its peak, Cantona was inhabited by the Olmeca-Xicalanca culture, before it was abruptly abandoned in 1050 AD.

The city comprised a main ceremonial center and several quarters with their own religious centers, plazas, and pyramids, all connected with streets. The archaeologists found over 350 workshops dedicated to producing obsidian objects to be traded throughout the state. The obsidian was mined nearby, in the surrounding mountains, and was the economic basis of Cantona. It was used to produce weapons, tools, and decorative elements.

Cantona was at the height of its power at around 600-900 AD. It was considered the largest and most important city in the Central Highlands. It’s unclear why it was abandoned at around 1050 AD, long before the Spaniards arrived in Mexico. That’s also why Cantona isn’t mentioned in historical sources – the Spaniards arrived too late to see its splendor.

Nowadays, the southern part of the city has been explored and made accessible to the public. It comprises only an estimated 2 % of the whole area of old Cantona – much is still to be discovered by the archaeologists. The excavated area contains residential areas, a part of the civic and religious center, streets, plazas, pyramids, and ball courts.

The On-Site Museum of Cantona

Opposite the ticket booth at the site’s entrance, you’ll find the on-site museum of Cantona. You’ll learn more about how the city was constructed and about the everyday life of its inhabitants. It also focuses on the exploitation of obsidian which was the city’s economic base. The museum helps you better understand the context and background of the archaeological site, so it’s worth visiting it before you explore the ruins.

The signs to the artifacts are mainly in Spanish – make sure to download the offline version of your translation app if you don’t visit with a guide.

What to See in Cantona: Exploring the Archaeological Site

When you enter the archaeological site, you follow a predetermined round trip. Depending on how much time you have and how much you want to explore, there are 3 predefined routes you can take. The longest route would take 2-3 hours to complete; the short and middle routes take about 1-1.5 hours.

This is the official map of Cantona published by the INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia de México):

The site of Cantona covers around 12 km² (4.6 mi²) over cobbled pathways and you can climb the pyramids, so make sure to wear good footwear.

Here’s what you can expect to find on your way through Cantona. While you explore the site, notice that the walls and pyramids were all built without mortar.

• Cobbled Pathways: You start your circuit on the Calzada 1, a walled causeway with several patios to each side. You’ll come across many streets and pathways that connect the various buildings and temples.
• Residential Areas: On the square stone platforms in the patios along the Calzada, there used to be wooden sleeping huts with palm-tree roofs for the common people. Everyday life (cooking, eating, playing, working) took place outside the sleeping huts.
• Acropolis: The civic and religious center dominates the heart of Cantona. Archaeologists believe that the main structures located here were reserved for the political, economic, and religious elites. Likely the home to administrative buildings and temples dedicated to deities worshipped by the city’s residents, you find several ruins of pyramids and ball game courts here.
• Ball Game Courts: An interesting aspect of Cantona is the presence of multiple ball game courts. These enclosed spaces were more than just arenas for games. The ball game had immense cultural and religious significance in Mesoamerica, and Cantona’s ball courts are a remembrance of this ancient ritual that included human sacrifice. So far, around 27 ball game courts have been found, which is a really high number.
• Pyramids and Plazas: Adding to the city’s splendor are plazas and the pyramid of the lookout (El Mirador) at the end of Route 3 with a great view of the southern part of the city. These architectural elements might not be as colossal as those found in other Mesoamerican sites. But the sheer dimension of the area with its beautiful view of the surrounding valley and mountains speaks for itself.

Throughout the site, you’ll come across some explanation signs in 3 languages:

How to Get to Cantona

The journey to Cantona involves a scenic drive through Puebla’s countryside. Here’s how to get there:

By Car from Mexico City: The trip from Mexico City takes approximately 3 hours. Head east on Highway 150D towards Puebla. After passing Puebla, take the exit 140D toward Xalapa/Via Corta/Veracruz. Continue on the highway 140D until you reach the Cantona tollbooth (“Caseta de Cobro Cantona”) close to Tepeyahualco. Follow the signs leading to the archaeological site from there. Here’s my tip for a car rental service.

By Car from the City of Puebla: The drive from Puebla is slightly shorter, clocking in at around 1.5 hours. Head east on Highway 150 D. Take the exit 140D toward Xalapa/Via Corta/Veracruz. Once you reach the Cantona tollbooth (“Caseta de Cobro Cantona”) close to Tepeyahualco, follow the signs leading to the archaeological site. Here’s my tip for a car rental service.

Using Public Transportation: It’s a hassle to reach Cantona by public transport. I don’t think it’s worth the while, but if you insist, be aware that the Via bus company runs buses from CAPU, Puebla’s main bus station, to Oriental, a small city about 30 minutes from Cantona. From there, it’s best to get a taxi to the site, as the combi busses run irregularly. I suggest noting down the taxi driver’s number and agreeing on a time when he will pick you up to return to Oriental to get your bus back to Puebla. Make sure to check bus timetables upfront, but be aware that they’re subject to change on short notice.

Guided Tour: A much more relaxed way is to book a tour. There’s a tour starting from Cholula with guides that speak English and Spanish. They pick you up from your accommodation or hotel in Cholula and visit the archaeological site and its museum, as well as the nearby Alchichica crater lagoon. You don’t have to worry about anything and can enjoy the ride😊

Another tour has several pickup points in the city of Puebla, however, they don’t visit the Alchichica lagoon.

Planning Your Visit to Cantona

Cantona is open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Make sure to have enough time to get back home, especially if you arrive by public transport (see my tips on how to get to Cantona). The site is huge and there’s not much shade, so wear comfortable shoes to walk the cobblestone paths, sun protection, and a hat. Take water and some snacks on your trip, as there’s currently no restaurant at the site itself. See also my tip for where to eat in Cantona.

Note that it’s not allowed to bring pets, nor to smoke on the premises.

Where to Eat in Cantona

There’s currently no restaurant close to the site. However, in the nearby town Tepeyahualco, there are several options to eat. The highlight is certainly the following:

Restaurant Atonaletzin

Only a 10-minute drive from the archaeological site, this restaurant in Tepeyahualco is a must! It’s located in a former hacienda, called the “Hacienda Tepetlcalli, Hotel, Museo& Spa”, and lies on Calle Hidalgo Street. It’s a beautiful, tranquil place you shouldn’t miss! After eating, take a tour of the hacienda and its museum. In the garden of the hacienda, you’ll see beautiful peacocks and other birds. A perfect way to relax from the challenging exploration of Cantona!

Opening hours: Every day from 8 AM – 6 PM, Fridays and Saturdays from 8 AM – 10 PM.

So…Is it Worth Visiting?

Although it’s off the beaten path – or maybe because of it –, Cantona is well worth visiting. It’s a well-maintained, extensive site of archaeological findings with an adjacent small museum. It’s less expensive and not as overrun as many other more popular sites, and you can enjoy nature while walking among the ruins and ball courts. Compared to other sites, you can still climb the temples and pyramids, and the view from the hilltop is just great! I’d definitely recommend visiting it to anyone who loves ruins and nature and tranquil surroundings. However, I suggest arriving by car or by guided tour, as it’s a hassle to reach Cantona by public transport.

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