San Francisco, El Origen: 18 Things to Do in Puebla’s First “Barrio Mágico”
“San Francisco, El Origen” is Puebla’s first and very recent Barrio Mágico (Magical Neighborhood). It’s actually made up of 4 neighboring districts: San Francisco, El Alto, La Luz, and Analco. In June 2024, these four were combined to form the Barrio Mágico “San Francisco, El Origen”.
Founded on the west bank of the San Francisco River in 1531, the city of Puebla was built on a previously uninhabited area. It was planned as a city for Spanish settlers and to serve as a resting place for travelers and traders between the capital Mexico City and the main port in Veracruz at the Gulf of Mexico.
On the east side of the river, mostly indigenous workers settled down and helped construct the city. The river became the reference for the spatial and racial division of the Indian neighborhoods and the City of Angels, as Puebla was called in its beginnings. When you walk its quiet cobbled streets nowadays, you’ll find churches, markets, pottery workshops, traditional Mexican food, and remnants of the city’s past.
Read on to learn more about what to see and do in San Francisco, El Origen!
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At a Glance: 18 Things to Do in Puebla’s Magical Neighborhood “San Francisco, El Origen” (as a Tour)
The following list is ordered by moving from north to south, from the San Francisco Church to the Analco Market. This way, you could visit all sites in a walk of 2-3 hours or more if you include stops at a restaurant or the market. You can also start from bottom to top in Analco and then move north to San Francisco.
- Admire the Talavera Facade of the San Francisco Church
- Admire the Monument of the Founders of Puebla
- Visit the Lavaderos de Almoloya
- Relax at the Lions’ Fountain
- Buy Artisanal Bread
- Listen to Mariachi Bands at the El Alto Market
- Walk Along the Convent Passageway
- Walk Through the Ruins of the Convent Building
- Relax in San Francisco Park
- Visit a Fair at the William O. Jenkins Convention Center
- Visit the Tunnel Under the Bubas Bridge
- Admiring Colorful Colonial Buildings
- Go Mural-Hunting
- Buy Pottery in La Luz
- Admire the Colorful Mural in Analco
- Cross the Ovando Bridge
- Dive Into the Bustling Sunday Market in Analco
- Sample Typical Mexican Food
1. Admire the Talavera Facade of the San Francisco Church
The church and ex-convent of San Francisco was the first convent built in Puebla. Its construction began shortly after the foundation of Puebla. The building is set back a bit from the main street Boulevard Héroes del Cinco de Mayo and corners on the Avenida 14 Oriente.
Its yellow Churrigueresco façade is adorned with Talavera tiles and was built between 1743 and 1767 by the architect José Buitrago. On the walls around the entrance, you find 14 large panels of Puebla Talavera tiles representing vases with flowers and two smaller ones representing God the Father and the Virgin Conqueror. Flanked by two bell towers, of which the one to the left steals the show with its height of 63 m (207 ft).
In the interior, you find beautiful ornate altars and religious artwork, and not to forget,
the remains of the pious Sebastian de Aparicio, a Spanish friar who is said to protect travelers and who is still revered today.
Opening hours: 7 AM – 6 PM
Address: Iglesia San Francisco, Av 10 Ote 1005
2. Admire the Monument to the Founders of Puebla
Ernesto Tamariz designed this impressive monument. It was built between 1931 and 1935 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the founding of Puebla. The monument’s eclectic style, with art-deco elements, as well as its form of an octagonal semi-pyramid, gives it a unique design that stands out.
On the first level of this monument, you find four statues representing the founders of Puebla: Isabel I de Castilla (the Queen of Spain), Juan de Salmerón, Julián Garcés, and Toribio de Benavente “Motolinia”.
Above the statues, a second level depicts 4 angels. This is a reference to the foundation legend of the city, where angels showed Julián Garcés, the bishop of Tlaxcala, in a dream where he should found the new city. That’s also why the city was first named “Puebla de los Angeles” (Puebla of the Angels).
The top level represents the city of Puebla, depicting a colonial church built on top of a Mesoamerican pyramid.
Address: Fundadores de Puebla, Esquina con Boulevard Héroes del 5 de Mayo, Av 14 Ote
3. Visit the Lavaderos de Almoloya
Across the street from the San Francisco church, you’ll find the Lavaderos de Almoloya. They were the first public washing areas opened in Puebla in 1863 and were open until the 1980s. They’ve only been recently restored and reopened to the public in May 2024. Almoloya is another name for the San Francisco River whose water was used to fill the washing basins made of stone. The entry is free, and a guide will give you an explanation of how the women of Puebla used to wash their clothes here. You can also visit a tunnel under the washing area that goes under the street (only one way, however). 4 pumps guarantee that the tunnel isn’t flooded in the rainy season, as else the water could easily gain a height of 1 meter.
It might not seem to be a spectacular sight, but it’s an interesting part of daily life in Puebla from not so long ago when not all households had running water (or when people just came for the joint activity). In some more rural areas in Mexico, you might still find public washing areas. I remember having seen one in Chignahuapan, for example (though it was a modern one).
The entrance had no official sign on it when I went; just look for the building directly next to the Banyan Tree Puebla Hotel.
Opening hours: Thurs-Sun 10 AM – 5 PM. Free entry.
Address: Los Lavaderos de Almoloya, Cjon. de la 10 Nte.
4. Relax at the Lions’ Fountain
Across the street from the San Francisco Church and the Lavaderos de Almoloya, you can take a break at the Lions’ fountain (Fuente de los Leones), named so for the three white lions’ heads facing each side of the fountain. A small bridge leads across the water. The fountain is beautifully decorated with Talavera tiles of various colors, and around the fountain, you can find benches of the same style to take a break from your sightseeing tour.
Address: Fuente de los Leones, Esquina 5 de Mayo y 10 Norte, Av 14 Ote, Barrio del Alto
5. Buy Artisanal Bread
Just around the corner from the convent, the “Hornito de Pan San Francisco” bakery is known for its artisanal bread baked in a traditional brick and clay oven. You might cast a glance at how the bread is being baked when passing the bakery. The Vélez family, who founded it in 1965, still uses the original recipes passed down through generations. They’re especially known for their “tortas de agua” (buns) and the churros in the mornings, or try their chocolate cake.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 7 AM- 9 PM, Sun 8 AM – 8 PM
Address: Panadería Hornito de Pan San Francisco, Av 14 Ote 1011
6. Listen to Mariachi Bands at the El Alto Market
Founded in 1930 as a small “tianguis” (pronounced tee-UN-ghis), or street market, Mercado El Alto (also known as Garibaldi) is THE place to be when you want to experience live mariachi music while eating local specialties in an authentic local scene. Try the traditional chalupas, cemitas, or other typical dishes from Puebla. Outside the market at its north entrance, you’ll find statues depicting mariachi.
One note of caution: As it can get crowded in these kinds of markets, watch your belongings to avoid any pickpocketing.
Opening hours: There are no official opening hours indicated, but most places are open from 9 AM – 3 PM. If you come sooner or later, you might find some of them closed.
Address: Mercado El Alto, Av 14 Ote 1208
7. Walk Along the Convent Passageway
This passageway might not be very long, but it’s been beautifully restored and respects the remains of the former convent and textile factory buildings. Now home to cafes and a local government office, it’s a nice place to stroll along and take some pictures on your way to the other sites around the San Francisco convent and park. There are a handful of plates explaining the history in English and Spanish.
Address: Avenida 8 Oriente (between Calle 12 Norte and the San Francisco Park)
8. Walk Through the Ruins of the Convent Building
These ruins feature the remains of a Talavera factory as well as the convent’s cloister, the dormitory of the pious friar Sebastián de Aparicio (whose remains you can see in the church of San Francisco). There’s not much to see, but it’s got a nice atmosphere to stroll around the garden and ruins on a sunny day.
You can enter from the north via the Jardín Trinitaris garden which is now used for social events, or from the south through the Paseo de San Francisco passageway in Avenida 8 Oriente.
Opening hours: There are no official opening hours. It might be closed on public holidays.
Address: Ruinas del Edificio Conventual San Francisco, Barrio del Alto (no official address)
9. Relax in San Francisco Park
The San Francisco Park lies between the ruins of the convent and the convention center. Take a stroll, relax on the benches, look at the fish ponds, or visit the small shopping mall in its south (Paseo San Francisco). Don’t miss the “Hombre Azul” statue (blue man) by artist José Bayro C. decorated with blue Talavera tiles, representing the blue-collar worker.
This area used to be the old industrial area of Puebla with 4 textile factories that stood where you can now find the park, the convention center, hotels and restaurants, and the shopping mall. Some of the old structures have been preserved, like the old textile factory La Violeta in the Avenida 8 Oriente passageway between the park and the ruins of the convent building.
Opening hours: 8 AM – 8 PM
Address: Parque Paseo San Francisco, Cjon. de la 10 Nte. 3
10. Visit a Fair at the Convention Center William O. Jenkins
The modern convention center (Centro de Convenciones) offers various events throughout the year, from business conferences to cultural events. I stumbled upon it during a coffee fair, and I had the chance to try the products from various regions, eat some local delicacies, and practice my Spanish by listening to the presentations. So if you happen to be in town when a fair takes place, you’ll get to taste local specialties for free and might find a nice souvenir to take home. Check their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/CentroDeConvencionesPuebla/.
There are various places to eat in the nearby shopping mall Paseo San Francisco and along the Callejón de la 10 Norte that runs between the convention center and the shopping mall and the park Paseo San Francisco.
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9 AM – 7 PM. Sat-Sun closed. Opening hours vary when there’s a convention.
Address: Centro de Convenciones, Blvd. Héroes del 5 de Mayo 402
11. Visit The Tunnel Under the Bubas Bridge
You have to go down the stairs on the 5 de Mayo and Avenida 2 Oriente Street corner to get to the underground tunnels of the Bubas Bridge. There you’ll find yourself under one of the vaults of the Bubas Bridge, built in the 17th century to bring bubonic plague patients to the hospital on the other side of the bridge. That’s also where the bridge got its name from, as “buba” is another word for the skin conditions the disease caused. In 1963, the Boulevard Héroes del 5 de Mayo was built on top of the river to solve the problems caused by its use as a dumpster and the regular floods it caused. Several signs explain the history of the Bubas Bridge in Spanish and English.
The tunnel is very short, but the entrance fee includes access to the longer and more impressive tunnels of the Pasaje Histórico 5 de Mayo which lead you up to the historic site of the forts. Be aware that the distance from the Bubas Bridge to the other tunnels is a 20-minute walk, but you can also take the bus (Línea 3) from the nearby Analco B bus stop north to the Túnel 5 de Mayo bus stop.
Opening hours: 10 AM – 4 PM, closed on Mondays. The entry fee is 31 pesos (1.50 USD), and it’s free of charge on Tuesdays.
Address: Casa del Puente de Bubas, Av 2 Ote 1003, Barrio de la Luz
12. Admiring Colorful Colonial Buildings
On your sightseeing tour, you’ll come across many colonial buildings. Unfortunately, many have been neglected and have been victims of the tooth of time and the weather conditions, but there are some colorful examples of more well-maintained facades. Anyway, walking along the quiet cobblestone streets is a great way to explore this neighborhood!
13. Go Mural-Hunting
You might know by now that I’m a big fan of murals, and although you can’t top the mural in Analco you’ll come across on your way to the Analco district, you’ll find some inspiring examples all over San Francisco, El Origen.
14. Buy Pottery in La Luz
The La Luz district which is part of San Francisco, El Origen is known for its pottery workshops. Puebla has a rich tradition of pottery, and in La Luz, you can stroll through the various workshops until you find the piece you want. For example, the pottery center Centro Alfarero del Barrio de la Luz has a broad variety; or visit the small workshop of Don Angel (Alfarería Don Angel) who also does custom pieces.
15. Admire the Colorful Mural in Analco
You can’t visit San Francisco, El Origen, without heading to my favorite of all murals just 3 blocks to the south. The mural “De la Esperanza al Porvenir” (From hope to the future) stretches over maybe 50 meters and is a sign of gratitude to the workers of the health sector of the State of Puebla and their efforts during the COVID-19 pandemic. I love the colors and the different themes, and it might take you a while to take it all in.
“Today, great actions consolidate the meanings of solidarity, unity, trust, and human love to reach out and provide enough support, waiting for the grey and meaningless panorama to be filled with multiple colors that transform times of crisis into an enveloping reality of happiness and tranquility. What will be will come from the hands of those whose will disposes them to leave behind uncertainty and fear. From those who are busy, beyond their space and time, in changing crying looks for eternal smiles. In generating new opportunities to live tomorrow from a new present.” (cited from https://sc.puebla.gob.mx/descubre/mural-de-la-esperanza-al-porvenir)
Address: Mural “De la esperanza al porvenir”, Heroes 5 de Mayo – Puente de Ovando, Barrio de Analco
16. Cross the Ovando Bridge
The Ovanda Bridge (Puente de Ovando) is what remained of the 20 bridges that once connected each side of the San Francisco River. As the river was “tamed” in the 1960s and flows now under the busy Boulevard Héroes del Cinco de Mayo street, there’s no more water flowing under the bridge. There are staircases that lead you under the bridge, however, it’s dirty and smelly and there might be a shack of a homeless person, so I’d advise against going down. I’m including it in the list as you’ll pass it on your way to or from the Analco market and for its historical value.
17. Dive into the Bustling Sunday Market in Analco
Nothing to do on a Sunday? Then visit the Sunday market in Analco (Tianguis de Analco). Just a short 15-minute walk from the San Francisco Church, you’ll find anything from handmade crafts to food and clothes. There’s often music and people dancing, and you can try typical sweets or food. The food stands with typical Mexican dishes can be found along Calle 10 Sur and Calle 3 Oriente. Try cemitas, chalupas, mole poblano, or other typical poblano (meaning “from Puebla”) dishes for a bargain here.
Opening hours: Sundays
Address: Parque Analco (Av 5 Ote 501)
18. Sample Typical Mexican Food
Of course, enjoying the local cuisine when visiting the Magical Neighborhood has to be on your list of things to do. There are many options, and I suggest to consider what you’re looking for. If you’re ok with a low-profile ambiance and affordable dishes, the Mercado del Alto with its Mariachi bands or the Sunday food stalls at the Analco Market are great choices. If you prefer to sit in a restaurant and enjoy a meal with wine or cocktails, you’ll find various options. For example, in the Analco district to the south, there are Salón Mezcalli, Santo Menjurje, and the Restaurante Casareyna. In the El Alto district to the north, there’s the Restaurante la Chiquita. Another option for a quick bite is the various small places around the Convention Center and the small Paseo San Francisco mall next to it.
What to Do After Visiting San Francisco, El Origen
There are several attractions close by that you might want to visit next.
The Tunnels to the Forts of Loreto and Guadalupe
The ticket to the Bubas Bridge includes the entrance to the tunnels at the Pasaje Histórico 5 de Mayo. These lead up to the historic site of the Forts of Loreto and Guadalupe. From the San Francisco Church, it’s just a 15-minute walk to the entrance of the tunnels on the Cinco de Mayo street.
Barrio del Artista and the Artisanal Market El Parián
The artists’ district Barrio del Artista with its small workshops and the artisanal market El Parián are just across the street from the Convention Center. Look at the artists’ beautiful paintings, buy some artisanal products, and in the evenings, enjoy live music at the Café del Artista.
Los Sapos
At one block’s distance across the street from the Analco park, you get to Los Sapos. Enjoy the flea market on weekends, take some pictures of the colorful buildings along the Callejón de los Sapos, and taste the famous La Pasita licor with a bite of cheese and raisin at the La Pasita bar in Avenida 5 Oriente.
Museums and the City Center
Just 3 blocks west of the busy Cinco de Mayo Street, you’ll get to the zócalo (main square). There are various attractions and museums for you to visit. To know more, read about what to do in Puebla City.
Overview of the Districts of San Francisco, El Origen
El Alto: This district is the biggest of the four and comprises the San Francisco Church, the Lavaderos de Almoloya, the El Alto Market, the monument to the founders of Puebla, the Lions’ Fountain, and the convention center.
San Francisco: Spanish settlers initially established their neighborhood close to the San Francisco Convent (hence the name of the district).
La Luz: This district is home to several pottery workshops and the Bubas Bridge. There’s also the church of Our Lady of La Luz with a Talavera-tiled facade.
Analco: Its name means “the other side of the river”, and is nowadays home to the Sunday market, the Ovando Bridge, and various restaurants and shops along the Calle 3 Oriente street.
So…Is It Worth It?
If you’re interested in Puebla’s origin and enjoy cobbled streets and history, then exploring this quiet neighborhood is for you. Plus, it’s not far from other attractions the city has to offer. You can spend 3 hours exploring the Barrio Mágico and then head off to the Forts or towards the city center, for example. Or just pick out the 2-3 most interesting things you’d like to see here. If it’s your first time in Puebla and you have only a limited time to explore everything, I’d suggest you first check out what you can do in Puebla City, and then head towards the Barrio Mágico. Anyway, there’s lots for you to discover in either part of the city!
Plan and Book Your Trip
– Where to find cheap flights: Skyscanner.com
– Get compensation for delayed or canceled flights: AirHelp
– Which Travel Insurance to use: safetywing.com
– Where to book accommodation: booking.com, hostelworld.com
– Where to book rental cars: Discover Cars
– Where to book tours: Get Your Guide, Tripadvisor, Viator
– Transportation: Busbud for sustainable travel by bus, inDrive for city-to-city transportation service
Read Next:
- 24 Best Things to Do in Puebla, Mexico – Colonial Architecture, Culture, and Cuisine
- 17 Typical Dishes of Puebla – A Food Guide
- Discover Mexico’s Magical Towns (Pueblos Mágicos) – Local’s Guide
- Celebrating Day of the Dead in Puebla 2024 – 13 Things to Do
- How to Celebrate the Day of the Dead in Huaquechula, Puebla (2024)
- 14 Best Things to Do in Cholula
